July 2006

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Saturday, August 5, 2006
10am - 5pm
AMF Shea Village Lanes
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(between Cactus & Shea)

by Tessa Kimmel
Originally written for Animal Wellness Magazine

“If it’s too hot for you, it’s too hot for your pet.”

It’s something to always keep in mind during the hot, hazy days of mid-summer. As we wander around in as little clothing as the law will allow, stealing the occasional run through a neighbor’s sprinkler, we also need to consider the effects of hot weather on our dogs and cats.

The hazards of heatstroke
Animals aren’t able to release excess heat from their bodies the way we can.

Although some heat is released through the skin, the only real ways a dog or cat has of getting rid of body heat is by panting and sweating from glands between the toes. Unfortunately, this isn’t enough when an animal gets over-heated. Heatstroke, a dangerous and potentially fatal condition, can occur very quickly as the body temperature exceeds 105°F.

Buckeye enjoying the swimming pool.

Puppies and kittens, senior dogs and cats, and those who are overweight, have heart disease or other medical conditions are at a higher risk for heatstroke. In addition, some breeds are more prone than others. Animals with short upper respiratory tracts – such as pugs and Pekinese dogs, and Persian and Himalayan cats – cannot pant as effectively and are especially susceptible to heatstroke.

Left untreated, heatstroke can cause irreversible damage to the brain and other vital organs, resulting in death. Dogs are more susceptible than cats to heatstroke as they aren’t the best moderators of their own body temperature. Dogs are less likely to think “I’m hot and want to find some shade,” so it’s up to us to pay close attention.

What are the symptoms?
Signs of heatstroke include increased panting, and dry, sticky and discolored (bright pink, reddish or purple) gums and tongue. This is considered the first stage, and in most cases, helping your dog cool down is all you need to do. Take him to a shaded or air-conditioned area. If possible, douse him with water. Use cool but not ice cold water; the latter may cause shivering and actually increase his body temperature. Offer small drinks of water but don’t force him to drink. Over-heated dogs sometimes cannot swallow properly. If, in tandem with excessive panting and discolored gums, your dog vomits, displays a lack of coordination, lethargy or even collapses, he is in serious heat-related distress and you must seek immediate veterinary attention.

Cats are typically more adept at keeping cool than dogs, although they are not immune to heatstroke. A cat that is over-exerted or cannot find a cool place is at risk. If she pants and drools, she is over-heated. Apply the same cooling techniques as you would for a dog. A cat that vomits, has a lack of coordination, dilated pupils or mucus membranes that are grayish in color is in serious trouble and requires immediate veterinary attention.

How can I prevent heatstroke?
• Exercise your dog early in the morning or later in the evening.
• When temperatures are extreme, forgo the exercise and allow potty breaks instead.
• If you must walk your dog when the weather is hot, carry a portable water bowl and bottled water. Keep the walk short, stop at regular intervals in shaded areas and offer your dog water.
• If you allow your cat to roam outdoors, ensure that a bowl of water and shaded areas are available. Install a cat door so she can come indoors when it gets too hot out. Better still, keep her indoors at all times, regardless of the season.
• Never leave your animal inside a car, even for a minute or two – not even if you park
in the shade and leave a window partially open. Each year we hear heart-wrenching
news reports of animals who succumbed to the heat because they were locked inside a car.

It’s always the same: “But I was only gone a few minutes!” Temperatures inside a car can rise 40ºF in just one hour, and 80% of that increase occurs within the first 30 minutes! This is the case even on cloudy days, or when the car is in the shade. And although we may think we’ll only be gone a few minutes, we too often get sidetracked and those minutes stretch out. When you return, your animal could already be in critical condition, and even the most experienced veterinarian may not be able to save his life. Leave your animal at home while you run errands.

Sun protection is important too
Your dog or cat may be covered in hair, but that doesn’t mean he can’t get sunburned. Noses can easily burn as can the interiors of upright ears. Some medications are also known to increase sun sensitivity, so if your animal is taking anything, ask your veterinarian what effects direct sunlight may have. Apply a bit of sunscreen to sun-exposed areas, using a product that’s made for children, that contains no zinc or PABA, and that has an SPF higher than 15.

Like people, animals can and do get skin cancer from sun exposure. Single coated dogs will benefit from wearing a light jacket or even a cotton t-shirt. That extra layer will protect his skin from the rays of the sun. And while it may be tempting to cut or shave a long-haired or double-coated dog, it’s not advisable unless recommended by your veterinarian. The long hair actually helps protect your dog’s skin from the sun and the double coat acts as insulation.

Don’t forget his feet.
Paw pads are often irritated by hot asphalt and become dry, cracked and sore. Not only that, but it’s just plain uncomfortable for your dog to put his paws on blazing hot concrete! Use a paw protection product. Topical balms and ointments not only protect from the harsh asphalt, but ward off dry, cracked paws. Special boots insulate his feet from the heat and can also provide protection from shards of broken glass.

Our four-legged companions rely on us to keep them happy and healthy and to help them beat the heat. A few simple precautions will keep your best friend safe all summer long.
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Tessa Kimmel is the owner of Cozy Critters (www.cozy-critters.com)in Toronto, offering pet care services such as pet sitting, dog walking and puppy select ion and training. She specializes in geriatric animals and those with medical conditions and disabilities. Tessa has over 20 years’ experience in animal care, and has been a veterinary technician for ten years.

by Tawni McBee,PDTI

There is a lot of confusion about what constitutes holistic care. When is a modality (a method of treatment) holistic? What does it mean to be alternative? What does conjunctive mean? And complementary, is that FREE? So let’s get some definitions out of the way, first thing.

Holistic medicine, according to Taber’s Cyclopedic Medical Dictionary, is "comprehensive and total care of a patient. The needs of the patient in all areas, such as physical, emotional, social, and economic, are considered and cared for." The philosophy states that "in nature, entities such as individuals and other complete organisms function as complete units that cannot be reduced to the sum of their parts".

Alternative, in a definition paraphrased from Webster’s Encyclopedic Unabridged Dictionary, is one of the courses that could be chosen, implying a choice. One of the definitions implies that the choices are mutually exclusive, so that if one is chosen the other must be rejected. So, perhaps, when applying this to caring for a living creature, this could easily be misunderstood.

Conjunctive. Now there’s an oddly unusual word. It means simply to join or connect. Perhaps a better word to use for healing arts would be adjunctive, an even more unfamiliar term to some. Adjunctive, again from Webster’s, is "something added to another thing but not essentially a part of it, joined or associated".

Complementary is a word that can be very confusing due to many meanings & confusion with spelling. Complementary means completion or enhancing. In healing practices, the word is used to mean that the modality works well with other treatments, either being benign or assisting the current treatment. Complimentary refers to flattery or something given out of respect. Usually complementary modalities are not free!

Tawni McBee doing Body work on Nagy, a Shepherd Mix. Photos taken by Heather Houlahan, 2005

In an attempt to be honest and open with our clients, we prefer the words adjunctive and holistic.

Treatment of the whole dog, his or her environment, physical well-being, disposition and behavior is very important to us. Therefore, we consider ourselves holistic dog trainers. We want the dog to be a member of your family, not just a decoration, a noise-making security device, or a toy. To that end, we want to make sure all aspects of the dog’s life fit into your family’s life and everyone is "on the same page". Our evaluations cover the dog’s behavior and how it affects your family life, the dog’s food, sleeping arrangements, day to day accommodations, any problems you may be having, and the physical condition of the dog. If we feel your dog needs Veterinary care, we will suggest that you see your Vet prior to beginning any formal training. We are a part of your dog care team, not an opposing team. You will be told if we feel physical conditions are a problem for your dog and may be causing some of the behavior you are seeing. A customized program will be set up for you that may include training, behavior modification, scheduling, food counseling, our unique body care techniques or other modalities based on our evaluation of your dog. We will expect the entire family and anyone caring for the dog to follow the program. Our methods are adjunctive because we work closely with Veterinarians, groomers and other members of your dog care team to help balance your family life as it involves your dog.

Tawni McBee owns a holistic dog training company with her partner Pat Bryant. The name of their company is All Greatful Dogs. They are dedicated to reinforcing the pet/owner bond with exceptional, unique training and care that addresses the whole dog and includes the whole family. They are holistic trainers offering obedience classes, agility training, Reiki and other body-work modalities for dogs.

New Hope Cattle Dogs highly recommends their services.

Housetraining the Older Dog

by Champaign County Humane Society

You and your family have made the decision to adopt an older dog from the shelter rather than a young puppy. The big day has finally arrived: You are bringing your new companion home with you. Everyone is happy and excited, including your new dog!
It's important for you to remember that your new companion finds these new experiences very stressful. You and your home are unfamiliar to him. He doesn't know where he is or even where the doors are that lead outside. The food and water are different. He doesn't know where he is going to sleep. He may or may not have been housetrained previously.

It would be wise to assume that he has not and start with him as you would with a young puppy.

One of the most important things you should do upon arriving home is introduce the dog to his yard or exercise area and let him eliminate before entering the house. He may or may not have been exercised on a leash. He will be curious and want to explore. Be patient and wait for him to eliminate. Be certain to praise him and let him know this was the right thing for him to do.

Changes in food and water, plus the stress of a new situation, can result in episodes of diarrhea. It would be a good thing to make certain he has frequent access to his outdoor elimination area the first few days. Don't expect him to tell you when he needs to go out. Go outside with him and praise him each and every time he eliminates.

Housetraining should be based on the prevention of accidents rather than discipline after the fact. If your dog makes a mistake because you didn't get him out when you should have - it's not his fault!

Since your dog is no longer a young puppy he will have better bowel and bladder control. Place the dog on a regular elimination schedule and take him outside at certain times, whether he needs to eliminate or not - first thing in the morning, after meals and play and the last thing at night. It is essential to accompany him to make certain he is, indeed, eliminating. Dogs are creatures of habit. The more quickly you turn a good behavior into a habit, the faster your training will go.

If you haven't already decided on a crate for your dog, you may want to investigate purchasing one for him. The most effective way to teach him to eliminate outdoors is to prevent him from using the house in the first place.

Dogs are den animals and have an instinct not to soil their den. The crate will become your dog's den.

Confinement to the crate overnight or for a three-to-four-hour period during the day when he is unsupervised will help speed the housetraining process.

Despite your best efforts and diligence an accident may occur. If it should happen, treat the incident in a matter-of-fact manner. It is critical that you not scare or confuse your dog by physical punishment or yelling.

The dog won't understand why you're upset, and you are only creating more stress for your dog. Put the dog outdoors or in another room while you clean. If the accident should occur on carpeting use lots of paper towel and blot with fresh paper until you have lifted as much liquid as possible. Neutralize the odor with plain white vinegar and water or a commercial pet-odor eliminator. A diarrhea stain on carpeting or upholstery can be lifted with a solution of lukewarm water, dishwashing soap and white vinegar.

Housetraining your older dog requires patience, humor, understanding, compassion and time. He wants to please you by doing the right thing. Help him make the adjustment to his new home a successful one.